Skip to content

Companion Planting Chart

Tap what is in the bed, or what you plan to put in it. Every pair a source names appears with its claim and — the part the charts leave out — what stands behind it: a study that tested it, a spacing trick, or a chart listing nobody tested. A pair no source names is not listed.

2 of 3 pairs tested in research — see the pairs ↓
Vegetables
Herbs
Flowers and trap crops

Cabbage family = broccoli, cabbage, kale, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts. Onion family = onion, garlic, leek and chives. A trap crop is bait: it goes in first and the pests on it are dealt with.

In your bed: tomato, pepper, basil and marigold

2 of 3 pairs tested in research1 helped, 1 where the research disagrees, 1 spacing trick.

  • Tomato + Marigold Research: it helped

  • Tomato + Basil Research disagrees

    • Basil cuts thrips on tomatoes, and may help them grow Research disagrees

      • Minnesota Extension — tested — it helped: “A few studies show that basil and marigolds can be effective at reducing thrip populations in tomatoes in both field and greenhouse conditions. Intercropping with basil may even help to promote tomato growth.” Companion planting in home gardens — Natalie Hoidal, reviewed 2026 · checked 2026-09-27
      • Washington State — tested — no clear benefit (said of aromatic herbs in general, not of this pair): “Pest-repelling properties of mints and other aromatic species have long been a staple of popular companion planting wisdom, but field research has not borne out this belief for mint or any other aromatic species” Gardening with Companion Plants (EM128E) — Linda Chalker-Scott, December 2023 · checked 2026-09-27
    • Basil improves the tomatoes’ health, flavour or yield Tradition — no trial cited

    • Good companions Tradition — no trial cited

  • Pepper + Basil A spacing trick

    • An early crop of basil first, then peppers in the same bed A spacing trick

Worth knowing about what you picked

  • Marigold: Washington State: French marigolds put off beneficial insects as well as pests.
    Washington State — the original words

    “While this species has been found to have a negative effect on pests such as codling moths, it also discourages the moths’ natural enemies and other beneficial insects (Laffon et al. 2022). These marigolds do not distinguish between pest and beneficial insect species.” Gardening with Companion Plants (EM128E) — Linda Chalker-Scott, December 2023 · checked 2026-09-27

  • Marigold: Against root-knot nematodes, Florida IFAS says marigolds planted among the vegetables probably do nothing; grown on the spot as a cover crop at least two months before, they can.
    Florida IFAS — the original words

    “Intercropping marigold with other crops to reduce plant-parasitic nematodes does not appear to be effective.” Marigolds (Tagetes spp.) for Nematode Management (ENY-056) · checked 2026-09-27

Every source checked 2026-09-27.

The whole companion planting chart — 88 pairs, with the evidence

Every pair the six extension sources name. Tap a plant above to see a pair’s exact words and links.

PairThe claimWhat stands behind itWho says so
Asparagus + BasilGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Asparagus + ParsleyGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Asparagus + TomatoGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Beans + Onion familyKeep them apartTradition says keep apartWest Virginia’s chart
Cabbage family + Arugula or mustard (trap crop)Arugula or mustard as a trap crop draws flea beetles off the cabbage familyResearch: it helpedMinnesota Extension
Cabbage family + BeansKeep them apartTradition says keep apartWest Virginia’s chart
Cabbage family + BeetGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Cabbage family + DillGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Keep them apartTradition says keep apartWest Virginia’s chart
Cabbage family + FennelKeep them apartTradition says keep apartWest Virginia’s chart
Cabbage family + MarigoldMarigolds cut cabbage-worm damage on cabbageResearch: it helpedMinnesota Extension
Marigolds keep flea beetles off the cabbage familyTested: no clear benefitMinnesota Extension
Cabbage family + MintMint’s scent keeps pests off the cabbage familyTested: no clear benefitWashington State
Good companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Cabbage family + NasturtiumNasturtiums cut cabbage-worm damage on broccoli and cabbageResearch: it helpedMinnesota Extension
Good companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Cabbage family + Onion familyOnions cut cabbage-worm damage on broccoli and cabbageResearch: it helpedMinnesota Extension
Green onions keep flea beetles off the cabbage familyTested: no clear benefitMinnesota Extension
Good companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Cabbage family + RosemaryGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Cabbage family + SageSage cuts diamondback-moth numbers on Brussels sproutsResearch disagreesMinnesota Extension, Washington State
Good companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Cabbage family + SpinachGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Cabbage family + StrawberryKeep them apartTradition says keep apartWest Virginia’s chart
Cabbage family + SunflowerGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Cabbage family + Sweet cornGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Cabbage family + ThymeThyme cuts cabbage-worm and diamondback-moth damageResearch disagreesMinnesota Extension, Washington State
Cabbage family + TomatoKeep them apartTradition says keep apartWest Virginia’s chart
Cantaloupe & melon + Blue Hubbard squash (trap crop)Blue Hubbard squash as a trap crop pulls cucumber beetles off the melonsResearch: it helpedMinnesota Extension
Cantaloupe & melon + PotatoKeep them apartTradition says keep apartWest Virginia’s chart
Cantaloupe & melon + SunflowerGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Cantaloupe & melon + Sweet cornGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Carrot + LettuceDeep carrot roots between shallow lettuce roots compete lessA spacing trickWashington State
Good companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Carrot + Onion familyDeep carrot roots between shallow onion roots compete lessA spacing trickWashington State
Onions and leeks keep carrot fly off the carrotsTradition — no trial citedTennessee Extension
Good companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Carrot + RadishRadishes and carrots side by side save spaceA spacing trickMinnesota Extension
Carrot + Sweet cornDeep carrot roots between shallow corn roots compete lessA spacing trickWashington State
Celery + BeansGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Celery + Cabbage familyGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Celery + NasturtiumGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Celery + Onion familyGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Celery + TomatoGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Cucumber + BeansGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Cucumber + Blue Hubbard squash (trap crop)Blue Hubbard squash as a trap crop pulls cucumber beetles off the cucumbersResearch: it helpedMinnesota Extension
Cucumber + Cabbage familyGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Cucumber + PeasGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Cucumber + PotatoKeep them apartTradition says keep apartWest Virginia’s chart
Cucumber + RadishGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Cucumber + SunflowerGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Eggplant + BeansGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Eggplant + MarigoldGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Lettuce + CucumberGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Lettuce + Onion familyGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Lettuce + StrawberryGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Onion family + AsparagusGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Onion family + BeetGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Onion family + PeasKeep them apartTradition says keep apartWest Virginia’s chart
Onion family + StrawberryGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Onion family + TomatoGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Pepper + BasilAn early crop of basil first, then peppers in the same bedA spacing trickMinnesota Extension
Pepper + LettuceAn early crop of lettuce first, then peppers in the same bedA spacing trickMinnesota Extension
Pepper + SpinachAn early crop of spinach first, then peppers in the same bedA spacing trickMinnesota Extension
Potato + BeansGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Potato + Cabbage familyGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Potato + EggplantEggplant as a trap crop pulls potato beetles off the potatoesTested: no clear benefitMinnesota Extension
Keep them apartTradition says keep apartWest Virginia’s chart
Potato + MarigoldMarigolds keep Colorado potato beetles awayTested: no clear benefitMinnesota Extension
Good companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Potato + PeasGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Potato + Squash & pumpkinKeep them apartTradition says keep apartWest Virginia’s chart
Potato + SunflowerKeep them apartTradition says keep apartWest Virginia’s chart
Potato + TomatoKeep them apartTradition says keep apartWest Virginia’s chart
Radish + LettuceDeep radish roots between shallow lettuce roots compete lessA spacing trickWashington State
Good companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Radish + Onion familyDeep radish roots between shallow onion roots compete lessA spacing trickWashington State
Radish + Sweet cornDeep radish roots between shallow corn roots compete lessA spacing trickWashington State
Spinach + StrawberryGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Squash & pumpkin + Blue Hubbard squash (trap crop)Blue Hubbard squash as a trap crop pulls squash bugs, vine borers and cucumber beetles off the othersResearch: it helpedMinnesota Extension, Illinois Extension
Squash & pumpkin + MarigoldMarigolds cut squash-bug and cucumber-beetle damage, and bring in the aphids’ enemiesResearch: it helpedMinnesota Extension
Good companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Squash & pumpkin + NasturtiumNasturtiums cut squash bugs and cucumber beetles on squashResearch: it helpedMinnesota Extension
Good companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Squash & pumpkin + RadishGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Squash & pumpkin + Sweet alyssumSweet alyssum brings in the aphids’ natural enemiesResearch: it helpedMinnesota Extension
Strawberry + BeansGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Sweet corn + BeansGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Sweet corn + Beans + Squash & pumpkinThe Three Sisters: corn holds the beans up, beans add nitrogen, squash shades out weedsResearch: mixedMinnesota Extension, Washington State
Sweet corn + BuckwheatFlowering buckwheat brings in the predators of corn earwormResearch: it helpedMinnesota Extension
Sweet corn + CowpeaFlowering cowpeas bring in the predators of corn earwormResearch: it helpedMinnesota Extension
Cowpeas sown under the corn as a nitrogen-fixing coverA spacing trickMinnesota Extension
Sweet corn + CucumberGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Sweet corn + PeasGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Sweet corn + PotatoGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Sweet corn + Squash & pumpkinGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Sweet corn + TomatoKeep them apartTradition says keep apartWest Virginia’s chart
Tomato + BasilBasil cuts thrips on tomatoes, and may help them growResearch disagreesMinnesota Extension, Washington State
Basil improves the tomatoes’ health, flavour or yieldTradition — no trial citedTennessee Extension
Good companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Tomato + DillGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Tomato + FennelKeep them apartTradition says keep apartWest Virginia’s chart
Tomato + LettuceAn early crop of lettuce first, then tomatoes in the same bedA spacing trickMinnesota Extension
Tomato + MarigoldMarigolds cut thrips on tomatoesResearch: it helpedMinnesota Extension
Tomato + ParsleyGood companionsTradition — no trial citedWest Virginia’s chart
Tomato + SpinachAn early crop of spinach first, then tomatoes in the same bedA spacing trickMinnesota Extension

Quick answer: a handful of pairings have been tested and held up — a trap crop of arugula or mustard for flea beetles on the cabbage family, Blue Hubbard squash to pull squash bugs and cucumber beetles off the rest of the squash, nasturtiums and marigolds against squash bugs and cabbage worms, basil and marigolds against thrips on tomatoes, and flowering buckwheat or cowpeas beside sweet corn. Several favourites have been tested and did not hold up, like marigolds against Colorado potato beetles. Most of the rest of any companion chart, including the “keep these apart” column, is tradition that nobody has trialled. The tool shows which is which for the plants in your bed, and who says so.

How to use it

Tap every plant that is in the bed, or that you are thinking of putting there. Each pair a source names appears with its claim, a badge for what stands behind it, and the source’s own words one line down, with a link. Under that, “worth adding” lists the companions a study backs for what you already grow — tap one and it goes in the bed. The link at the bottom keeps your bed, so you can send it to whoever you garden with or open it again in spring. Below the tool is the whole chart: every pair the six sources name, all at once.

What the badges mean

  • Research: it helped — a study tested this pair against a pest and it made a difference. The source says which pest, and whether it was in a field or only in a greenhouse.
  • Research disagrees — one source reports a study that worked, another says the research does not bear it out. Both are shown. Basil with tomatoes is the famous one.
  • Research: mixed — there are results, and they point both ways. The Three Sisters sits here.
  • Tested: no clear benefit — it has been tried and did not do what the charts say.
  • A spacing trick — not a pest claim at all: an early crop before a late one, or a deep root next to a shallow one, so two crops share a bed without fighting over it.
  • Tradition — no trial cited and Tradition says keep apart — the pair is on a published chart, with no study behind it that the source names. That does not make it wrong. It means nobody has shown it is right.

Where the claims come from

Six sources, all public universities, each quoted word for word: University of Minnesota Extension (a 2026 review of the pairings with research behind them), Washington State University Extension (Linda Chalker-Scott’s 2023 publication on the science and the myths), University of Illinois Extension, West Virginia University Extension (its “Plant Friend or Foe?” chart, the traditional kind), University of Tennessee Extension (trap crops and intercropping) and University of Florida IFAS (marigolds and nematodes). We did not add a single pair of our own, and a pair none of them names is not in the tool.

Washington State’s verdict on the popular charts is blunt: “most lack any credible, supporting science”. Minnesota puts it more gently — the charts online “are not always accurate or backed by research” — and then lists the pairings that are. This tool is those two points of view set side by side, pair by pair.

The Three Sisters

Corn, beans and squash, grown together for hundreds of years by Indigenous farmers from Mesoamerica to the Iroquois. Minnesota describes how they are meant to help each other: the corn is a pole for the beans, the beans fix nitrogen, and the squash puts raccoons off the corn; Washington State adds that the squash vines carpet the soil and hold down the weeds. Washington State went looking for the field trials and found few. Those it found report no difference in the soil or in the plants’ nutrients, lower yields of beans and squash in the mix, and more total food from the same ground when it is measured as a land equivalent ratio. Its conclusion: there may be historic and cultural reasons to plant them, but “no compelling, published evidence” that it improves yields or the soil. Plant them for the history, the look or the space, not because a chart promises a bigger harvest.

Marigolds, the most over-promised flower in the garden

Marigolds are on every chart, and the research on them goes both ways. Minnesota’s sources found marigolds cut thrips on tomatoes, squash bugs and cucumber beetles on squash, and cabbage worms on cabbage. But multiple studies found they do nothing for Colorado potato beetles, and Minnesota says there is little research behind marigolds against flea beetles. Washington State adds a catch: French marigolds put off beneficial insects as well as pests. And for root-knot nematodes, Florida IFAS says marigolds planted among the vegetables probably do nothing. Grown on the spot as a cover crop for at least two months before the vegetables go in, they can help.

Trap crops: plants grown to be eaten

A trap crop works the opposite way to what most people expect from a companion. It does not repel anything; it is more attractive than your crop, so the pests go there first. Arugula and mustard for flea beetles, Blue Hubbard squash for squash bugs, vine borers and cucumber beetles. Illinois Extension says to plant it before the crop it protects, and then deal with the pests that collect on it. Otherwise it becomes a nursery for them. Tennessee puts a trap crop at typically 10 to 20 percent of the main crop, and Minnesota found that three or more trap species together work better than one.

What the tool leaves out, and why

West Virginia’s chart also says beans go with “most vegetables and herbs”, and that cucumbers should be kept away from “aromatic herbs”. Neither names a plant, so neither is turned into a pair here. A few plants on that chart are not in the tool at all (gladiolus, chard, horseradish, raspberries, borage, summer savory). And the chart contradicts itself once. It lists dill as a companion of the cabbage family and, in the next column, as a plant to keep away from it. The tool shows both, because that is what the chart says.

Spacing is not here either: how far apart and how many per square foot is a different question from which plants belong together. For the soil the bed needs, the raised bed soil calculator gives the cubic feet and each part of the mix. When something in the bed is already chewed, spotted or wilting, the plant doctor lists the causes that fit, water and weather first. And before you reach for a spray, we compared the neem oils that are sold for vegetable gardens.

Common questions

Does companion planting actually work?
Some of it does. University of Minnesota Extension lists pairings that reduced pests in studies — trap crops of arugula or mustard for flea beetles, Blue Hubbard squash for squash bugs and cucumber beetles, nasturtiums and marigolds with squash, basil and marigolds with tomatoes. Washington State University Extension says most popular companion charts lack credible, supporting science. The tested pairings are a short list; most chart entries are tradition.
What should I plant next to tomatoes?
Basil and marigolds have studies behind them: Minnesota Extension says a few studies found both reduced thrips on tomatoes, in the field and in greenhouses. Washington State says field research has not borne out pest-repelling claims for aromatic herbs, so the evidence on basil is split. West Virginia’s chart lists parsley, dill and basil as tomato companions, with no trial cited.
What should not be planted together?
The published “keep apart” lists are tradition, not research. West Virginia University’s chart says to keep beans away from onions and garlic, tomatoes away from potatoes, fennel and the cabbage family, and corn away from tomatoes. It cites no trials for any of them, and it lists dill on both sides for the cabbage family.
Do marigolds keep bugs away?
It depends on the bug. Minnesota Extension reports studies where marigolds reduced thrips on tomatoes, squash bugs and cucumber beetles on squash, and cabbage worms on cabbage, but multiple studies found they do not deter Colorado potato beetles. Washington State notes French marigolds deter beneficial insects too. Florida IFAS says marigolds planted among vegetables probably do not reduce root-knot nematodes; grown as a cover crop at least two months before, they can.
Does the Three Sisters method increase yield?
Washington State University Extension found few field trials. They report no difference in soil or plant nutrients, lower yields of beans and squash in the mix, and higher land equivalent ratios. Its conclusion is that there is no compelling, published evidence the Three Sisters improves productivity or soil quality, though there may be historic or cultural reasons to plant it.
What is a trap crop?
A plant grown because pests prefer it to your crop, so they gather on it instead. Arugula and mustard draw flea beetles away from the cabbage family; Blue Hubbard squash draws squash bugs, vine borers and cucumber beetles away from other squash. Illinois Extension says to plant it before the main crop and deal with the pests on it; Tennessee Extension puts it at typically 10 to 20 percent of the main crop.